Living on the edge: My trip through the border towns

Written on 16th December 


After twenty hours of sweaty, crowded and bumpy bus rides I have finally arrived in Samdrup Jongkhar for the launch of the Samdrup Jongkhar Initiative. Rather than taking the conventional route through Eastern Bhutan, I travelled through India so that I could attend a wedding  in the border town of Phuentsholing. As the wedding of the only daughter in the family I knew it would be a spectacular event and no expenses would be spared

The house in Jaigon 

A beautiful property had been rented out for the occasion and the balmy Indian breeze was a welcome change from the bitter chill of Thimphu’s frosty mornings. The traditional Nepali rituals were mesmerizing – the tika, washing of the feet, staining of the bride’s forehead and the readings. After the wedding I spent the evening relaxing with Sushil’s family.

The bride and groom

Time flew by as we decorated each other with henna ink. I panicked when I realized that I still needed to get my Indian visa stamped before heading over the Indian border at 5am the following morning on the bus to Samdrup Jongkhar. If I failed to get the stamp I wouldn’t be able to enter India! I grabbed Sushil and we raced to the immigration office.

No lights. No people. It was closed. I couldn’t decide whether to laugh or cry. Visions of attending the launch in SJ and my tour through Bhutan started to fade. Sushil attempted to negotiate with the armed guards at the gate. Although he didn’t show it at the time, Sushil later told me that he had desperately begged the guards to call someone from immigration to stamp my passport.


Eventually a disgruntled civil servant came down to meet us. The story we had formulated to explain my after hours visit was that I’d just arrived from Thimphu and needed the stamp for the following morning when the office would be closed. I didn’t blame the official for being particularly suspicious of a disheveled looking girl with tika on her forehead and freshly inked henna covered hands, who claimed to be Australian yet appeared to look Nepali. To my relief he agreed to stamp my passport and I set off to Samdrup Jongkhar very early the next day!

I had been warned that the 12-hour trip from Phuentsholing to Samdrup Jongkhar was risky and not for the faint hearted. To begin with, the bus is always filled beyond capacity and the seats are barely big enough to fit two small children, let alone two fully-grown adults. Luckily, I was seated next to a tiny seventeen-year old girl, yet even we struggled to comfortably fit side by side. As we got further into the trip, the seats seemed to only get smaller and smaller. By the time we reached our first rest stop half of my body was off the seat and my legs were sticking out into the aisle of the bus.

I felt like a ragdoll being flung around the bus and then violently slammed back down on the hard plastic seats as the bus moved over every bump and dip of the unpaved roads. Needless to say, sleeping was impossible. Some sections of road were so poor that the bus had to travel at less than 20 km/hr. Any speed beyond this would have damaged the wheels and suspension beyond repair. Breathing, talking and seeing became increasingly difficult as my eyes, throat and lungs became coated with dust from the road.

It's snowing! Wait nooo that's just dust 

Travelling through the Indian state of Assam was a confronting experience. Assam is a conflict ridden area and was previously a hotbed for militant training grounds. In 2001 a bus passing through the area was attacked by militants, resulting in the death of 20 Bhutanese people. Consequently, all Bhutanese buses passing through the area are required to travel in a military escorted convoy and gun wielding guards line the road. Despite all of this there were some sections of the ride that I really appreciated.  As you would expect after a tortuous 12 hour bus ride, I had a great chat with the girl I was next to and the beauty of the Indian sun setting over the tea plantations in Assam was not completely overshadowed by the discomfort of the trip . But my enjoyment was short lived when another passenger informed me that the owner of the tea plantation I was admiring had been kidnapped just days earlier!  It was definitely an adventure but not something I’d be volunteering to do again anytime in the near future!


Anyhow at the moment I've safely arrived in the border town of Samdrup Jongkar and VERY excited about the launch of the Samdrup Jongkhar Initiative! (www.sji.bt)